Monday, February 24, 2014
Need an electric dog fence to keep your dog contained?
Need an electric dog fence to keep your dog contained? An Invisible Fence* system can cost $2,000+. You can do it yourself for about $300. We can help. This free guide, shows you how to install an underground electric dog fence comparable to pros like Invisible Fence * for a fraction of the cost. This Dog Fence DIY guide will show you how to buy and install a pet containment fence, properly train your dog and maintain the system for years to come. Stay tuned...
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
 | Introduction DIY Invisible Fence battery Invisible Fence pet containment systems require a new battery in the dog's collar every 3 months. Invisible Fence dealers sell battery packs for around $15. This expensive battery is a plastic case around a common CR1/3 lithium cell, readily available from any hardware or drugstore for less than $5.00. Here is how to "renew" your battery in about 1 minute! |
| Step 1 Prepare tools and supplies. You will need: - A 3V lithium cell known as CR1/3N or DL1/3N - A spent Invisible Fence battery module - A razor blade, a sharp knife or a very small shovel - Optionally, something to grasp the battery with to avoid cutting off your fingers. |
 | Step 2 Grasp the battery. Hold the battery sideways and grasp firmly |
 | Step 3 Pry off the cover With a very sharp knife, separate the cover ring from the battery housing. |
 | Step 4 Separate the cover Gently work around the battery housing until the cover falls off. Be careful with the metal contacts! Note the orientation of the cell - the new cell will go in just like this. |
 | Step 5 Pull out the battery assembly Gently pull out the cell by the metal contacts. |
 | Step 6 Separate the battery Remove the cell from the metal clip. Discard the cell in the most environmentally-friendly way available. |
 | Step 7 Insert new cell Put the metal clip around the new cell. Make sure the positive side of the battery only (the metal can) is in contact with the metal clip. Gently insert into the plastic housing, aligning the metal clip with the grooves on the inside of the housing. |
 | Step 8 Check battery and clip positioning Make sure the cell is all the way in and is oriented correctly. |
 | Step 9 Replace plastic cover It will snap into position between the 2 metal contacts. You are done |
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Pet Fence Training: Step Four
Introducing Off Leash
Now start to allow your dog to be in the yard off leash. Keep the sessions short and supervised at first, but if the dog observes the boundary then extend the sessions, and start to go inside for short periods and leave the dog unsupervised for a few minutes. Peak through your window and see what happens.
If you get any breakouts, then you will need to do some more training on step 2.
Now start to allow your dog to be in the yard off leash. Keep the sessions short and supervised at first, but if the dog observes the boundary then extend the sessions, and start to go inside for short periods and leave the dog unsupervised for a few minutes. Peak through your window and see what happens.
If you get any breakouts, then you will need to do some more training on step 2.
Pet Fence Training: Step Three
Now we will test to see how well the dog has learned the boundaries by adding some distractions. Put the receiver collar on the dog and put the dog on a long leash.
Take the dog on the leash about a yard from the boundary flags. The dog should see the flags and not cross the boundary. If the dog does cross, then you need to do some more work on step two.
Now take the dog back from the boundary and play with them with a favorite toy, like a tennis ball. After a couple of minutes once they have got into the game, throw the toy over the boundary and see what your dog does. A well trained dog will quickly spot the flags and not follow the toy over the boundary.
In a second session have a neighbor walk their dog close to the boundary and see if your dog attempts to cross.
In a third session, a member of the family should walk over the boundary (not paying any attention to the dog) and test if the dog follows or stops at the boundary.
If your dog gets distracted and crosses over the boundary for any of these tests, then you need to do a bit more training on step two until your dog can pass these three test.
Take the dog on the leash about a yard from the boundary flags. The dog should see the flags and not cross the boundary. If the dog does cross, then you need to do some more work on step two.
Now take the dog back from the boundary and play with them with a favorite toy, like a tennis ball. After a couple of minutes once they have got into the game, throw the toy over the boundary and see what your dog does. A well trained dog will quickly spot the flags and not follow the toy over the boundary.
In a second session have a neighbor walk their dog close to the boundary and see if your dog attempts to cross.
In a third session, a member of the family should walk over the boundary (not paying any attention to the dog) and test if the dog follows or stops at the boundary.
If your dog gets distracted and crosses over the boundary for any of these tests, then you need to do a bit more training on step two until your dog can pass these three test.
Pet Fence Training: Step Two
Now we introduce the correction. Reactivate the shock on your collar, either by adjusting the control box or removing the masking tape you added. Place the collar on the dog, ensure that it is tight enough for the two contacts to be touching the dog. If the contacts are not touching the dog they will not receive the correction. You want it tight enough that you can insert two fingers between the collar and the dog. For a small and compliant dogs, put the shock on medium-low, for a medium size dog put it on medium-high and for a large or stubborn dog put it on high.
We know there is a temptation to set the correction very low, in an attempt to avoid hurting the dog, but the opposite is true. If you set the correction low the dog will learn that it is not too bad and try exploring past the boundary … they may end up on the street and they could really get hurt. Turn it up high and they might get shocked a couple of times but they will quickly learn to avoid the boundary. The dog should never learn that they can cross through the boundary and that there will be no shock on the other side. Err on the side of a higher shock. If during the training the dog does not seem to care much about the shock you have it on too low and need to turn it up. If there is no reaction at all to the shock, then you have probably not got the contacts pressing against the dog properly, you may need to trim a bit of hair for long hair dogs or tighten the collar to get it in contact with the skin.
As before we start and end all training session with play time to keep it fun.
As in the first step, you are going to put the dog on a long leash and take them about a yard from the boundary. As before you never want to lure the dog over the boundary, let them wander over by themselves. It may take a few minutes. When they cross and the beeping starts, wait till they receive their correction. This may take a second or so. You will know the dog got the correction because they will visible flinch or recoil. Then pull the dog back into the safe area saying “no, no, no.” When they retreat praise them. When they retreat do not baby them. The dog got a shock and it is no big deal, it was just like the static shock you sometime get on carpet (if you are in doubt try it on yourself – we have been shocked scores of times and it is no big deal, more surprising than hurtful). You are the dog’s leader, if you panic they will panic and they will not learn, if you act like it is not a big deal it will not be a big deal and they will learn that the shock was simply the consequence of crossing the boundary.
If the dog doesn’t cross the boundary, praise them. Watch their body language. You will often see the dog heading toward the boundary, but then stop when it shifts it’s vision to the flags. You will often see a dog spontaneously turn their back to the flags. You want to praise this type of behavior.
Repeat this activity three times a day for another week. Make sure your dog does not get shocked more than once a session. You do not want them to find this training an unpleasant experience. If they get shocked during the session, simply switch off the shock (or wrap the receiver contacts collar in masking tape) and continue on with the training.
We know there is a temptation to set the correction very low, in an attempt to avoid hurting the dog, but the opposite is true. If you set the correction low the dog will learn that it is not too bad and try exploring past the boundary … they may end up on the street and they could really get hurt. Turn it up high and they might get shocked a couple of times but they will quickly learn to avoid the boundary. The dog should never learn that they can cross through the boundary and that there will be no shock on the other side. Err on the side of a higher shock. If during the training the dog does not seem to care much about the shock you have it on too low and need to turn it up. If there is no reaction at all to the shock, then you have probably not got the contacts pressing against the dog properly, you may need to trim a bit of hair for long hair dogs or tighten the collar to get it in contact with the skin.
As before we start and end all training session with play time to keep it fun.
As in the first step, you are going to put the dog on a long leash and take them about a yard from the boundary. As before you never want to lure the dog over the boundary, let them wander over by themselves. It may take a few minutes. When they cross and the beeping starts, wait till they receive their correction. This may take a second or so. You will know the dog got the correction because they will visible flinch or recoil. Then pull the dog back into the safe area saying “no, no, no.” When they retreat praise them. When they retreat do not baby them. The dog got a shock and it is no big deal, it was just like the static shock you sometime get on carpet (if you are in doubt try it on yourself – we have been shocked scores of times and it is no big deal, more surprising than hurtful). You are the dog’s leader, if you panic they will panic and they will not learn, if you act like it is not a big deal it will not be a big deal and they will learn that the shock was simply the consequence of crossing the boundary.
If the dog doesn’t cross the boundary, praise them. Watch their body language. You will often see the dog heading toward the boundary, but then stop when it shifts it’s vision to the flags. You will often see a dog spontaneously turn their back to the flags. You want to praise this type of behavior.
Repeat this activity three times a day for another week. Make sure your dog does not get shocked more than once a session. You do not want them to find this training an unpleasant experience. If they get shocked during the session, simply switch off the shock (or wrap the receiver contacts collar in masking tape) and continue on with the training.
Dog Fence Training: Step One
First we want to stop the collar receiver from shocking the dog. To do this, you may be able to turn the shock off on the collar receiver or on the transmitter. If your system does not have this feature, wrap the prongs of the collar with masking tape to stop the collar from shocking the dog. Now place the collar on the dog.
You want to begin and end each training session by spending a few minutes playing with your dog. They need to remember that the yard is still their place to play.
Place the dog on a long leash and slowly walk toward the boundary, stopping about one yard before you reach the boundary flags. Let the dog wander toward the flags and until their collar starts beeping. If this happens then pull on the leash and quickly pull the dog back into it’s safe area and say forcefully “no, no, no.” You must be animated and have a sense of urgency. If you are like most people, you probably say “no” to your dog about ten times a day, this time they need to know that it is important. You need to make this time more memorable. You want them to learn to retreat FAST, so do it FAST but confidently.
If you have a partner to help you, have them wave the flag and also say “no, no, no” when the dog gets too close. Once the dog is back into the safe area praise the dog.
Repeat this process, using different sections of the fence each time. Do this three times a day for a week. You will notice as the week goes on that your dog starts to automatically turn away from the flags. This is what you want to happen.
Remember to end the session with a few more minutes of play, this is fun for both of you
You want to begin and end each training session by spending a few minutes playing with your dog. They need to remember that the yard is still their place to play.
Place the dog on a long leash and slowly walk toward the boundary, stopping about one yard before you reach the boundary flags. Let the dog wander toward the flags and until their collar starts beeping. If this happens then pull on the leash and quickly pull the dog back into it’s safe area and say forcefully “no, no, no.” You must be animated and have a sense of urgency. If you are like most people, you probably say “no” to your dog about ten times a day, this time they need to know that it is important. You need to make this time more memorable. You want them to learn to retreat FAST, so do it FAST but confidently.
If you have a partner to help you, have them wave the flag and also say “no, no, no” when the dog gets too close. Once the dog is back into the safe area praise the dog.
Repeat this process, using different sections of the fence each time. Do this three times a day for a week. You will notice as the week goes on that your dog starts to automatically turn away from the flags. This is what you want to happen.
Remember to end the session with a few more minutes of play, this is fun for both of you
Installation: Finding and Fixing a Wire Break
Every now and then you will get a break in the wire for your dog fence. You will know this because the system will stop working and the transmitter box will sound an alarm or display an error light. Here are two methods for finding the break, starting with the easiest method.
Finding a Break by Visual Inspection
The most common cause of breaks is someone running an edger, aerator or other digging device across the wire. These breaks can usually be found by walking along where the wire runs and looking for spots where there has been recent digging.
Also check the connections between the wire and the transmitter as well as all the wire joints as these are common break locations.
Finding a Break using an RF Choke
First, buy a “100 µH RF Choke.” You can get one at Radioshack (catalog number 273-102). It should cost you less than two dollars. You will also need an AM radio tuned to 600.
Now, go to the dog fence transmitter box and disconnect the two wire leads where they connect to the transmitter. In place of each wire lead, connect one end of the RF Choke. Now turn up the transmitter signal strength to full. The transmitter box should now be showing that there is no break in the signal. Next take the two wire leads and wind the insulated section around the each of the legs of the RF choke with the uninsulated end touching the leg of the RF choke. (Note if the legs of the RF choke are too short, lengthen them with some wire.
Get the radio and walk along the path of the wire. You should hear a throbbing noise where the wire is intact and an absence where the break is located.
Fixing the Break
Once you have found the break, strip a half inch of insulation off each side of the broken wire and then use a weatherproof wire nut to connect the two sides. If the break is large, you may need to splice in some extra wire so that the two sides can meet.
Finding a Break by Visual Inspection
The most common cause of breaks is someone running an edger, aerator or other digging device across the wire. These breaks can usually be found by walking along where the wire runs and looking for spots where there has been recent digging.
Also check the connections between the wire and the transmitter as well as all the wire joints as these are common break locations.
Finding a Break using an RF Choke
First, buy a “100 µH RF Choke.” You can get one at Radioshack (catalog number 273-102). It should cost you less than two dollars. You will also need an AM radio tuned to 600.
Now, go to the dog fence transmitter box and disconnect the two wire leads where they connect to the transmitter. In place of each wire lead, connect one end of the RF Choke. Now turn up the transmitter signal strength to full. The transmitter box should now be showing that there is no break in the signal. Next take the two wire leads and wind the insulated section around the each of the legs of the RF choke with the uninsulated end touching the leg of the RF choke. (Note if the legs of the RF choke are too short, lengthen them with some wire.
Get the radio and walk along the path of the wire. You should hear a throbbing noise where the wire is intact and an absence where the break is located.
Fixing the Break
Once you have found the break, strip a half inch of insulation off each side of the broken wire and then use a weatherproof wire nut to connect the two sides. If the break is large, you may need to splice in some extra wire so that the two sides can meet.
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